Sunday 31 May 2015

Making a corset pattern practice

I tried following a pattern making tutorial but I did it half scale so I could fit it on A4 paper rather than spending ages making a full size one - I only wanted to see how easy it was! So I took all the measurements I needed, and halved them, and started following the tutorial. One problem, I forgot to half the numbers that they gave me too...TIME WASTED!!! I'm so mad that I forgot to half the other figures, because now the whole thing is wrong and I might as well wait until tomorrow and do a full size one on the pattern paper at college! I only have about 2 weeks left on this project and I've not started making my garment yet!! Fair to say I'm a bit worried...lets just hope that I get it done properly tomorrow!


I've ordered my metal boning and busk from eBay so they should be with me Tuesday / Wednesday...just in time for me to have my pattern ready and fabric cut, ready to start making yay!!!!

Sunday 24 May 2015

A *brief* history of corsets


Corset: Garment worn to hold and train torso into a desired shape for aesthetic or medical purposes.

Who: Both men and women can wear corsets, though it's more common with women.

When: The exact origins of the corset are a mystery. There are preserved corset shaped cages from the 16th century, but these are unrelated to normal clothing. The theory is that these cages were fetish accessories or some attempt at orthopaedics. We can deduce that some form of corset must have been worn around 1530 as portraits of women at the time showed them with flattened chests and high necklines, along with very straight torso lines. This kind of shape could not be achieved without a corset.

Until the mid 17th century, the bodice of the dress was often stiffened, meaning there was no need for a corset, so very few corsets from the 16th and 17th centuries have been preserved as there weren't that many in the first place! It was towards the end of the 17th century that corsets became an individual piece of clothing, totally separate from the bodice. From then on, the corset became an undergarment, and women would wear skirts and jackets or robes over a stiff bodice.

In the 18th century, stays were classed as underwear, keeping a similar shape to that of 17th century bodices. Despite being covered by outer garments, stays were often fairly decorative, with finely stitched tunnels for boning, precious patterned silk fabric, and sometimes even gold trim! However, the inside of the stay would often be very messy and sloppy.
Stays that lace at the back are called corps ferme, or closed stays. Stays that lace at the front are called corps ouvert, or open stays. It is quite rare to find a stay that laces at both the front and back, and even rarer to find a stay that laces at the front only.

1750 - 1760 Child Corset
Towards the end of the 18th century, dress waistlines wandered upwards slightly, so the corset became shorter. Paniers ("basket" hoop skirt) weren't being worn anymore, so the skirts would attach to small pads sewn to the tabs of the bodice. Physicians began to warn about tight lacing and the harm it could do to the wearers body. Lacing wasn't hugely common at this point, but the people who did do it would often tightly wrap their babies and corset their children in order to take advantage of their soft, moldable skeleton, and make it into a fashionable shape. It's actually pretty shocking that someone would corset their own baby / young child because it is "fashionable"!

1794-6, the waistline moved again, this time to just under the bust. This rendered bodices slightly pointless, as half of the torso didn't need shaping any longer. However, the breasts still needed lifting, but they were to stay apart this time. This was the first time cups were used, and similar corsetry techniques were used to keep the breasts apart. Slender figures didn't really need this bra-like design, it was more for larger women.

During the 1820s, corsets became more popular as the waistline moved back down to its natural place. Lacing eyelets with hammered-in metal grommets are invented in 1828, whereas previously eyelets had been hand sewn. A year later, the planchet or busk was invented. This was two metal strips, one with little mushroom shaped heads and one with eyelets, used to fasten the corset down the front, to save time lacing.

Nowadays, corsets are worn more as costumes and for burlesque, or the design mimicked on tops without actual body restriction. People do still "waist train", but because we now know the medical problems corsets can cause, it's not very common. If you did want to waist train, you'd have to get a corset maker to make you a corset designed to your specific measurements. The common corsets you can buy from shops are usually made with plastic boning and feature lacing as more of a design element rather than to squeeze the figure in, often with a strong hook and eye type fastening down the front or side for actual support. This type of corset won't alter your shape much, if at all, in the long run.

Where: The name corset comes from the French word corps, which originates from the Latin word corpus, meaning body. The term corset only came into use during the 19th century; prior to that it was called a bodice or stays.

Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corset
http://www.marquise.de/en/themes/korsett/korsett.shtml

Saturday 23 May 2015

Idea for a piece in my video installation?

found this on pinterest, maybe break a mirror or something, or take photos of peoples faces, cut them up and write the things they hate about themselves through the "cracks"? these could go on the walls of the room where my installation will be

Interesting corsets

I really want to make a corset, but it's so predictable of me...so I'm not allowed to make a corset. At least not a normal corset. So I'm going to look into some interesting and weird corsets, maybe ones that distort the body in other ways than your average corset would? I've done some sketches in my book already, but my ideas are running dry, so I need to get inspired!

this wouldn't have the strength that I want, its for decor rather than physical restriction, nice how you can see the lines / structure though
Leather corset, visible seams and straps, odd shape, not symmetrical
this is like what i wanted to do, restricting the neck and head too, but made to look pretty with the silver beads and sequins, looks fairly uncomfortable
looks very painful, digging into chin, squashing eyes and mouth, forces wearer to adapt a different position, like how you can see the methods of attaching bits together
very lady gaga style, changes the figure, adding points and sharp lines rather than sticking with the curves of the body, i like the panelling effect
see through, very structured, like how you can see it, bit boring though
buckles and straps add extra structure and restriction, but doesn't look uncomfortable, just looks like it's meant to look awkward. more of a costume piece
this is just really freaky! Why would you want to do this?? Ew! But still kinda cool, I'd never do it to myself mind you! The piercings would have hurt originally, so the pain is dressed up by the beauty of the lacing
This is really nice, very beautiful, but I could imagine very uncomfortable, and you wouldn't be able to sit down surely? Also, I don't think she is wearing any underwear...but all you really see at first is the stunning gown, you see the beauty, not the pain. the model looks like she's having to stand really straight and her face doesn't seem comfortable!
This one is just really extreme, but an example of the different pieces that make up an old style corset, as you can see all the seams and lines in the garment. Also give you an idea of what was classed as beauty in the 17th and 18th centuries!! Shocking!
two different pieces, so you are restricted in two separate places, i like how it covers her mouth, like she's not allowed to complain about the pain she's in. like the fact you can see the lacing and eyelets. despite the restriction, one of the model's breasts is free, giving the illusion of freedom and movement? But in the photo, her breast isn't exactly "free", as it seems as geometric and specifically structured as the rest of the image *fake boob alert* :/
this looks more decorative than structured, modern take on a victorian ruff / collar? twist of the fabric is a nice touch
this looks reeeeeally painful! goes down the neck too, pushes the cheeks up, eyebrows down and pulls chin in. like how you can see how it's being held tight
this is really weird because at first, you don't tend to notice the [what looks like] plastic face and neck corsets! the one on the face seems to squash the lips into a pout, and the neck one keeps the head held high and generally supports the chin. this looks painful!!! but not noticeable, like you wouldn't necessarily know that a person is in pain through their appearance
Pretty sure this is a Victoria's Secret model, you don't really notice the corset at first as it is a beige / nude colour, similar to her skin. This could represent the fact that pain isn't always visible? Like the structure, for a specific part of the body, underbust
Looks like leather? neck corsets, don't look like they're painful...probably just a decorative piece, nice structure though, designs could be similar but with more restriction?
These images are really weird! They seem to show pieces on the body that give a more desired body shape? For example, wider shoulders, larger breasts, thinner waist? Like these a lot, I could possibly cast some body parts from the mannequins at college, as they are all very disproportionate!
these seem to totally restrict the wearer, very similar to what I've been designing...so I can't really make the exact same thing that's already out there! reminds me of a beetle shell, looks layered, movement very restricted, arms pulled in as well as waist
This corset is on display at the Museum of Costume in Manchester. It is purely a display piece as the inside is completely covered with sharks teeth. It is a well made corset, and the point of the piece is to symbolise the pain women went through to achieve the "perfect figure" in the 17th and 18th centuries. I think this is awesome, it's kind of what I was going for, but I want my corset to be wearable, by a mannequin at least!
Wire corset, like the pattern of it, looks crocheted or maybe knitted? I can imagine it wouldn't keep it's shape due to the wire being so thin and delicate
whole bodysuit, emphasising hips, defining waist, the shapes on the garment create contours on the body
-----------------------------------
Kind of unrelated but found this in my search and thought it was a nice way to draw corsets from the side and a good way to show how they change the body shape

Friday 22 May 2015

tshitz website now published!

Head to tshitzclothing.weebly.com to see our professional website and see all our current designs!

Self restriction

So to really get a feel for how I can restrict the human form, I am sitting on my bed wearing a corset. All I'm going to say for now is ouch...

This is a photo of pretty much the same corset I'm wearing, just to give you an idea...only it definitely doesn't look like that on me hahahahahahahaha I wish!

Okay so for one, it's noticeabley harder to breathe, the corset becomes very tight when I try and take a normal sized breath, and I find that I'm taking more frequent, smaller breaths to try and compensate.
The corset is most comfortable when I'm stood up, or sat up straight when sat down. I'm currently sat cross legged so my posture automatically wants to slouch, but this is painful on my hips where the bottom of the corset is digging in.
The corset is rubbing on my underarms.
It's almost impossible to wear a bra with this on, so my boobs are half flattened under the fabric and half bulging over the top. Not exactly flattering...
The one good thing, however, is that the corset is holding my slightly podgy belly in.
But it's not really doing anything for my shape to be honest! It makes my hips look bigger if anything and the whole squashing my top half doesn't make me look hourglass, it just makes me look more pear shaped! Perhaps an under-bust corset would work better?
It's quite hard to twist and painful to lean forwards, but more comfortable to lean backwards.
I'm finding that I'm bending my neck to look down at the laptop screen because of my straight posture holding my back up, and my neck is hurting now!
I've found I'm able to drink normally, however I can't really take big gulps, it has to be ladylike sips.
I just ate a cheesestring (so healthy...) and with it being a little thing, it wasn't really a problem, but I couldn't imagine trying to eat a full meal with this on!
I'm tending to walk very delicately and carefully.
When I bend down, I have to squat rather than bend over, as I can't touch the floor by bending over.
I just sneezed and OUCH!! Because sneezing makes you tense, and kind of makes you jump or twitch, however you'd describe it, it really hurt.
My shortness of breath is becoming to get really apparent now, and my ribs hurt. I'm also getting a headache which could just be a coincidence, or it could be a result of this corset. In the 18 and 1900s it was quite common for women to faint while wearing their corsets, especially if it was a new, tighter corset or they weren't used to wearing one.
I've got red marks on my boobs and hips where the top of the corset is creating friction.

It has only been about 15 mins...and I'm bored and in pain! This corset certainly is restrictive, and it's only a dress up / decorative one!! It's not a waist trainer, and I couldn't imagine wearing a corset for 23 hours a day every day or whatever you have to do. Yeah, my waist looks alright, but it's not worth the discomfort that I'm going through now! And this is only restricting one part of my body...I wouldn't like to wear anything else restrictive as well, let alone layers and layers of bustles and skirts and blouses and jackets on top! No wonder women used to faint! I can't see why women would want to carry on doing this nowadays, unless it was for a costume or whatever. I wouldn't like to do this day in, day out. Is the "perfect figure" really THAT worth it? Personally I do not think that this looks good!

I've just taken the corset off and the relief is unbelievable! I can move, stretch, bend, slouch and most importantly BREATHE!! It must have been half an hour max that I wore a corset and I honestly don't think I could do it on a regular basis!

There are lines down my stomach where the boning was tight, a diagonal line across each boob where the top was pressing into them, really red marks on my hips, lines across my back from the boning and the lacing and horizontal lines all over my waist area where my skin was pinched. I literally have an imprint of a corset on my skin!

Girls complain about bras being tight and restricting but I'd take a bra over a corset any day!

I want to find out how others feel about wearing a corset so I might get some of the girls (and maybe even guys!) at college to try this one on a see how they feel...?

Designing a corset?

It wouldn't really push me if I just used a corset pattern that was ready made, so perhaps I could make my own pattern? that way, I could make it really individual and it would be totally my own work.

I found this website that shows you how to use your measurements to draw your own corset pattern
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/
Looks pretty good, it even tells you how to make it as well! It might be worth a try?

Also found this site which gives you instructions to draft your own corset pattern and make, easy enough for complete beginners!
http://foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/free/beginner/74-draft-your-own-corset?showall=&limitstart=

Another good site, however these instructions are somewhat more complex, possibly a little too much for my skillset? I'll have to give it a try...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Corset-drafting-and-sewing/

I know some of the things I'm going to need, so I should probably start sourcing them!
- Boning: I'm thinking I'd like to use steel boning, to really get away from what I usually use, which is cheap plastic stuff that doesn't hold very well, and wouldn't be uncomfortable for the wearer...which is what I want
- Outer fabric: Something strong but plain I think, then again I'm not sure. Possibly calico or something?
- Lining fabric: Again, something strong, probably not the cheap polyester lining I normally buy, as I want this piece to be perfect!
(possibly) - Interfacing: Not sure if I'm gonna need this, as the fabric will hopefully be strong enough on its own, but if I do need it, I will get some really strong thick stuff, the iron on kind.
- Eyelets: I have some brass and silver eyelets already, but they're a bit crap...so I might invest in some better ones and maybe a machine to fit them properly?
- Strong ribbon: I'm going to need a lot of ribbon, and very strong ribbon!!
- Strong cotton: Probably Guterman, but a really strong type...

That's about it I think, for now anyway..!

Thursday 21 May 2015

What my FMP means to me

So I had a really bad night last night because of a really strange dream thats set my head spinning, but it has also put some perspective on my life and this work, and I can see how I've been subconsciously relating my designs to my feelings and my life.

My current designs are of a corset, but overly restrictive, almost suffocating, having a strict posture and a specific way of holding yourself. At the moment there are a lot of pressures in my life, as with everyone, I'm not special, because everyone has problems and people don't want to hear about mine. But now, I feel like this project can be a creative outlet for me, the constraints that I feel, I can reflect in my work.

Sorry for the rambles, I really should make a personal blog that isn't related to college...

Wednesday 20 May 2015

Random rambles

Just some random notes about stuff...

- Corsets move your organs
- exaggerates different parts of the body: waist, breasts, hips
- I could exaggerate a different part of the body which is not normally exaggerated? shoulders?
- corsets very impractical, meant you weren't a worker, you had money. tighter the corset, more you couldn't move therefore the more money you had
- I could take something not tailored and tailor it to fit me/someone?

-need to look at how McQueen and Westwood designed their garments!!!

- could take some clothes apart and put them back together again to see how they fit etc
- decorate my corsets to see how they would look, rather than making one and it looking stupid- test out first!!
- look at bras --> support, pressure on shoulders etc
- contorted figures; ideals: skinny waist, big boobs, tall, hourglass
- high heels make your bum and boobs stick out by changing your posture
- look at distortion of the body ---> cosmetic surgery
- male tailoring for the female form?
- make my garment to change the female form, flatten boobs and bum, over sexualise something random like shoulders? knees?

I asked Matt what it feels like to wear a suit (kind of male equivalent to female corset?):
- nice
- love it
- head held high
- confidence
- uncomfy when sitting or reaching for things / lifting, feel a bit exposed if it rides up when reaching

a suit is like a high heel..?

WHAT IS THE SECRET OF TAILORING
I NEED TO KNOW

Tuesday 19 May 2015

Changing my ideas already...

Having discussed my idea (stop frame animation with collage) with the rest of the group, I've decided that it would be too limited and restrictive to do as a whole project...there wouldn't be much that I could experiment with.

So instead I'm going to do this project on fashion illustration, and develop my own personal style and material preference. I can look into artists and ways to draw, realistic or abstract? Different mediums, push the boundaries of what I like already and can do.

This will work well with my FMP as I can use what I've learnt to illustrate my final designs and have a well developed style by the end of this year, in time for me heading off to uni in September. Doing this as my unit 85 will mean I don't have to use up time doing it when I could be doing other stuff for FMP.. like making!

I already know the kind of things I like and what materials I'm good with already, so thats a good starting point. Let's go!

Claustrophobia and Agoraphobia

My tutor suggested looking into claustrophobia and agoraphobia, as I want my corset to be restrictive

Claustrophobia:
- irrational fear of confined spaces
- affects about 10% of the population
- mild anxiety to severe panic attack
- commonly feelings /fears of losing control
- some common triggers include: lifts, tunnels, tube trains, revolving doors, public toilets, cars with central locking, car washes, changing rooms in shops, hotel rooms with sealed windows, planes
- physical symptoms of a panic attack: sweating, trembling, hot flushes or chills, difficulty breathing, choking sensation, rapid heartbeat, chest pain, butterflies in stomach, nausea, headaches, dizziness, feeling faint, numbness or pins and needles, dry mouth, needing the toilet, ringing in the ears, feelings of confusion or disorientation
- Psychological symptoms: feelings of loss of control, fainting, dread, dying

http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/claustrophobia/Pages/Introduction.aspx
http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/37062.php

Agoraphobia:
- fear of being in situations where escape might be difficult or help might not be available if needed
- most people think its a fear of open spaces, but it's more complex
- person might be scared of travelling on public transport, visiting a shopping center or even leaving home
- symptoms of a panic attack: rapid heartbeat, hyperventilating, hot and sweaty, feeling sick
- show symptoms of avoidance behaviour
- approx a third of people with agoraphobia eventually achieve a complete cure without return of symptoms

http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Agoraphobia/Pages/Introduction.aspx

So I guess I don't actually want to induce panic attacks with my work, but that's sort of similar to what I want, because I want to make out like you'd be trapped in the garment, unable to escape or get help, but its sort of more about feeling like you have to withstand the pain / discomfort to fit in, to be accepted, so perhaps this will help.

Friday 15 May 2015

Westwood inspiration work

Vivienne Westwood

"It wasn't that I purposely wanted to rebel, I wanted to find out why it had to be done one way and not another."

Westwood is one of Britain's most inventive and influential designers.
In 1991 she was named British Designer of the Year.
Vivienne once said "The only thing I really do believe in is culture."
Westwood worked with Malcoln McLaren from 1970 to 1983 and together they launched Punk.
Her work is roooted in English tailoring and she learns through doing, which is why you can see the development of her style through her collections.
She has always had a practical approach to fashion, driven by her curiosity about how things work.
McLaren and Westwood, 1976
In 1971 they opened 'Let it Rock' at 430 Kings Road in London. They became disinterested with the hippie movement that was still the popular fashion choice of the late sixties, and instead opted for a more rebellious 50s style. Westwood would take apart original 50s Teddy-boy clothes to make her own, often making them for Malcolm McLaren.
McLaren outside 'Let it Rock', 1971

Their style changed to biker clothing, zips and leather in 1972, and 430 Kings Road was re-branded into 'Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die', complete with skull and crossbones. They designed t-shirts showing provocative messages, which led to their prosecution under obscenity laws. So what did they do? They re-branded again! However this time, they went even more hardcore.
'Venus' t-shirt
'Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die', 1972
430 Kings Road became 'Sex' from 1974 to 1976, with the slogan "rubberwear for the office". It was a shop "unlike anything else going on in England at the time".
'Sex', 1974
Malcolm McLaren managed the Sex Pistols, and when their number one hit "God Save the Queen" was refused air time by the BBC, 430 Kings Road was re-branded as 'Seditionaries'. This time, the shop transformed sexual fetishism into fashion, using straps and zips and inspiring a D.I.Y. aesthetic. This became known as 'Punk Rock'.
Seditionaries Shirt, 1977
When the Sex Pistols collapsed and Punk became more mainstream, Westwood was left disenchanted. 430 Kings Road eventually became 'Worlds End' in 1980, the name still used today. Worlds End is the name of the area, so actually quite unoriginal...but also very original too, depends which way you look at it.

Really interesting to read how Malcolm McLaren actually got the shop in the first place. Briefly, I'll tell you:
Malcolm was broke and walking down the street in his brand new, powder blue, teddy boy suit when it started raining. To protect his suit he sheltered in a phone box, when a man came over and said he looked interesting and invited Malcolm into his shop, which happened to be 430 Kings Road. He offered Malcolm one square foot in his shop to sell things, which Malcolm filled with records and magazines. One day, the shop owner said he had to go away for a little while, and asked Malcolm to look after the shop while he was gone. The shop owner never returned, and so Malcolm felt he should take over. When the landlord came to find out why the rent hadn't been paid, Malcolm explained the situation and they made a deal, where Malcolm now owned the shop and started paying the rent. And that is the brief story of how Malcolm McLaren came to own (well, rent) 430 Kings Road.

http://www.kidsofdada.com/blogs/magazine/11950453-sex-shop
http://www.viviennewestwood.com/history