Tuesday, 30 June 2015

Fashion through the decades

The female body has gone through a lot of change throughout the years, believe it or not, we haven't always been obsessed with being skinny! The female form was -shockingly- once celebrated for being natural! Wow...

Renaissance era (1400s to early 16th Century):
- A voluptuous body was in fashion, as we can see from the paintings of the time
- These women in today's standards would be considered overweight
- "Blondes have more fun" stemmed from this era, as light haired women were considered better than darker haired women
- Pale, ivory skin was the make up trend of the time, with deep, red lips, achieved using vermilion (red or scarlet pigment made from the powdered mineral cinnabar)
Victorian era (1837 - 1901):
- highly body conscious
- tiny waistlines achieved through wearing a corset. Women suffered broken ribs and breathing difficulties to achieve the ideal 12 inch waist
- layered petticoats, hoops and bustles all emphasized the bum and hips, making the waist appear smaller too
- high class women wore very minimal make up, as bold colours were reserved for prostitutes. Some religions even associated beauty products with the devil


Edwardian era (1901 - 1910)
- same corsets as the Victorian era
- more flowing skirt, emphasized the bum but went slightly inwards at the knees and then sharply outwards at the hem, often with a sweeping train
- due to the S-bend corset, women often lent on a long handled parasol or fashionable cane
- breasts pushed together as a "mono-bosom"



The Roaring 20s:
- women hid their curves
- some would bind their chests with strips of cloth to achieve boyish figure
- short and swingy flapper dress
- elastic webbed girdles replaced corsets to flatten the abdomen
- short hair was in fashion, bob or finger wave
- bold make up was now popular rather than trashy; face was powdered to make it as pale as possible, eyebrows lifted and pencilled in to be thin and bold, kohl pencil used to line and define the eye
- Chanel designs little black dress


The age of Hollywood (30s and 40s):
- women became more body conscious and paid a lot more attention to what they ate
- arms and legs accented, women started lifting light weights to build muscle tone
- new padded stretch cotton bra introduced
- Chanel, Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli started designing more fitted, glamorous attire
- Hairstyles became more feminine; hair colour varied depending on which movie star was the favourite at the time
- Jean Harlow popularized platinum blond, Rita Hayworth promoted her striking red hair and Marlene Dietrich represented brunettes
- make up became less bold, and women began to opt for foundation closer to their natural skin tones

The conservative 50s:
- women desired an hourglass figure, pinched in waist with fuller bust and large hips
- Stars like Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly were popular
- Women were taught that their primary aim was to attract a man and have a family, so dress to allure
- they rarely showed a lot of skin, despite dressing to get a man
- lots of petticoats underneath the skirt to create a full skirt
- large belts around the middle to define the waist
- short sleeves or cardigans worn to balance out the hips with the appearance of a larger bust and wide shoulders
- hair was worn short, just below the shoulders, in soft, curly or wavy styles
- women wanted flawless skin, a peaches and cream complexion

The swinging 60s:
- women wanted to look like Twiggy, thin as a stick, defined eyes with eye liner and mascara
- 2 polar opposites in fashion styles: hippie flower child and modern 60's woman
- Hippie: emphasis on peace and freedom, bell bottoms, tunics, platform shoes, back to nature style, long, no maintenance hair styles, avoidance of make up
- mod: mini skirt, matching sets in bright colours, shift dresses, knitwear, high boots, crop hair styles, fake eye lashes and tonnes of mascara


Disco 70s:
- women were still preoccupied with being skinny, and by the 70s, the thinking thin phenomenon was in full force
- clothing was sexy and disco ready
- wrap style dresses, oversized sunglasses, high waist jeans
- women wanted the ultra glam 'Studio 54' look, made popular by Bianca Jagger
- Farrah Fawcett hair: long, layered, feathery
- bronzed, beach look for skin, tanning booth trend

The 80s:
- aerobics craze emphasized fitness for women
- women should maintain a certain weight, but appear toned yet not too muscular
- eating disorder figures sky rocketed during this decade
- OTT fashion: neon suits with football player-sized shoulder pads, spandex
- 80s hair, "the bigger the better" mantra, lots of hair spray
- OTT make up, brighter colours, popular blue eye shadow and liner, shiny pink lips
- Bushy eyebrows were considered very sexy, thanks to Brooke Shields

The 90s:
- Models like Kate Moss further inspire the idea of extreme thinness, along with minimalist make up
- Heroin chic trend
- Grunge movement: flannel shirts, Doc Martens, an overall unkempt look
- spandex and the fluorescent colours of the 80s fashion stuck around for the first part of the 90s, obvious in the shows Beverly Hills and 90210
- lycra introduced
- midriff bearing tops became popular, along with belly button piercings and toned stomachs
- a popular hairstyle was the "Rachel" cut, from Jennifer Aniston's charachter on "Friends"
- other popular hair styles were the bob, bangs (Brenda Walsh) and bleach blonde colour (Donna Martin)

The New Millennium:
- we have more choice than ever before about our bodies, yet we still seem to aspire to be extremely thin
- now, the price of beauty is extremely high
- there's been a surge in plastic surgeries
- comebacks of past fashion trends, from pinched in waists to shoulder pads
- new trends such as low rise jeans and juicy sweat suits
- there doesn't seem to be a specific hair cut or make up style for this decade

2010 to now:
Well, what can I say? The website I've been using was obviously written a good few years ago, as things have certainly changed a bit since juicy sweat suits! But honestly, what has been the fashion over the past 5 years? It's hard to say, as we can't really look back with unbiased eyes yet, but having grown up through the new millennium, I couldn't really say what the trend was through the 00s. I was either in children's clothes or a teen following the short lived fashion of the month, and my parents aren't exactly stylish...neither is Retford for that matter!
I was born in 1996 so I suppose I started choosing my own clothes and developing my own style at age 10 maybe? So that would make the year 2006, and all I can really remember about my fashion choices were that I thought wearing clothes in colours that matched was cool...it was not. However, in the 50s / 60s, wearing a matching set was actually a trend, so I would have fitted right in. I went through a bit of a goth stage (who didn't?), but I think that was just to break up my massively girly wardrobe! I think I started disliking pink around age 10, and blue (through varying shades) has undoubtedly been my favourite colour since. But now, age 19, I'm still developing my own style. I like to dress a little 40s / 50s sometimes, as I feel the style compliments my body shape the best, however it' a hard style to wear every day when you're doing an art course (splatter paint + nice clothes = bad idea). I love the rockabilly style too, a modern interpretation on the 50s look, but I don't have tattoos and peircings and I'm not rebel enough for that :( plus, my hair wouldn't take the bright colours that come with the rockabilly style.
I also like the 60s style, which I'm hoping I'll be able to develop at uni, where I can dress as wacky as I want and no one will bat an eye lid :D
I guess my style will continue to change throughout my life; I'd rather not live in jeans and t shirts all my life, though they are pretty comfy and I probably will end up doing exactly that :/

Anyway, back to general fashion. At the moment there seems to be loads of girls wearing either ankle grazer skinny jeans or leggings, crop tops, leather jackets and nike trainers. It's almost like it's a uniform! Hipster is the current style I guess, for people who are bored with the mainstream fashion so decide to create their own, so it could basically be anything! Here's a pretty good picture to explain it.

Body shape wise, currently, the ideal is to have a thigh gap, skinny torso and cheekbones. Basically everything people think they can achieve through an eating disorder. These disorders have steeply inclined over the past few years and there doesn't seem to be enough help out there, or people just aren't taking it. All you have to do is go on instagram and type in some hashtag about being skinny or depressed and you get a whole heap of imagery of young girls and boys doing "body checks", where they show their progress and tell about their current feelings, and each egg each other on, further promoting the issues. Social media is no doubt massively to blame for the huge increase in eating disorders and mental health issues nowadays, but there's little any one person can do to stop it. You may have noticed that a lot of my work recently has been directed towards social media's negative view of beauty and mental health. I guess, in a way, I'm trying to raise awareness and do my own little bit to change something, even if it's just one person's opinion of themselves. It really saddens me to see the posts on instagram, but somehow I can't stop looking through them, almost as if I'm looking for a glimmer of hope that there is one person actually winning their fight with anorexia or another mental health disorder. We're not doing enough to help people with mental health issues, but at the end of the day, you can't help someone that doesn't want to be helped. Anorexia is an issue close to my own heart after trying to help my best friend through it around age 14/15, and in my eyes, failing her. She's better now, but we aren't in contact, and it disappoints me every day that I have never made the effort to contact her, but I feel it might be too hard, and I wouldn't want to bring back any memories from the days of her suffering. I feel selfish for playing the "poor me" card, as she was the one who was losing control of her life, but I wasn't coping as the only one who knew, trying to help her but keep myself afloat also. I suppose I want to help fight mental health disorders as a way of making up for failing my friend, despite the fact she is alive and well. But seeing her facebook posts and how happy she seems, I don't want anyone else to die when they could be saved and have their happiness back!!
Okay, this has gone way too deep...I'm contemplating even posting this :/
I guess it's all part of my journey though, not that I'll get extra marks for it haha
Well anyway, I guess my point is that art should mean something to you, otherwise what's the point?
Okay, this needs to end now...bye xox

Struggling with what to design

I had decided that I wanted to design garments that emphasize our negative perception of beauty, so like tiny waists, thigh gap, big boobs, skinny etc etc, but I'm finding it very difficult to get started! I just don't know what to design.

But then I had an idea! I googled different things like "perception of beauty", but only got make up related images. So I googled "beauty through clothing" and found this website: http://stylecaster.com/timeline-sexy-defined-through-ages/ which gave me an idea!
I'm now going to design garments specific to different decades, their recognised body shapes and popular fashion trends.
For example, if we take the 1920s, we know that the fashion was to wear clothing that made you look more masculine rather than feminine, since the war had changed women's job roles. Dresses were often straight, with no defined waist, and hair styles were short, giving a less feminine appearance.
So each model I design will be completely different, in body shape and clothing style, and I will then match an artist to my design and replicate it in their style.
I'm actually excited now I know what I'm doing!

Monday, 29 June 2015

Artist techniques to attempt

Here is the list of artists and the techniques they use that I will attempt:
(I haven't looked at all the artists that I had previously expressed that I liked, due to various reasons from a lack of information about them to actually disliking their work when seeing more than one piece!)
- Hayden Williams: "I always want to portray women in a positive way that is strong, sexy and confident but sophisticated and classic too. Those elements make up the Hayden Williams woman and design aesthetic."
Hayden Williams is quite simple with the techniques he uses; just a pencil, fine liner and some markers for colour. Sounds easy, but I doubt it really is that simple!
http://www.thearcadiaonline.com/faces-to-watch-hayden-williams-fashion-illustrator-extraordinaire/
- Nikki Farquharson: "I almost exclusively work by hand with a lot of pens and paper. They're my favourite media because they give me the most control, I enjoy the process and prefer the results. I use mechanical pencils, fine liner pens, colour markers, plain paper, coloured paper, tracing paper, magazine cut outs, digital photography and an A2 light box. Sometimes I complete, edit or make final touches to my work digitally when necessary."
I'm excited to work from Nikki's work again, I enjoyed it last time and I think looking at her work with more experienced eyes (rather than eyes blinded by A levels!), it will help me take a fresh look on her awesome creations.
http://www.nikkifarquharson.com/faq.php

- Ben Tour: "My full on paintings always start as a tight drawing first done in ballpoint, for some reason I always draw with ballpoint pens...? Once I'm happy with that I transfer it on to a box I build almost always out of wood. Then I lay down the paint really loosely using all kinds of paints and inks and "spray bombs" and make this big mess that eventually get tighter, then I drop the outline which is a direct copy from the first drawing I made. But really I just love to draw for myself using whatever's around."
Sounds like some major fun! Don't think I'll be building any boxes out of wood though...
http://www.fecalface.com/SF/index.php?option=com_content&id=153

- Claire Thompson: "Conveying personality through my illustrations is very important to me, but I always try to leave a little bit to the viewers' imagination, which is why I never draw faces. I'd rather the personality come through the designs, as opposed to a face."
Claire works with watercolours.
http://coutureshow.com/blog/2013/05/21/couture-chat-fashion-illustrator-claire-thompson
http://www.helloclaire.com/about-claire/

- Josh Bristow: " I particularly like elongated and exaggerating the human form within my illustrations."
Josh works with felt tip pens.
http://www.pigeonsandpeacocks.com/2013/11/illustrator-of-the-week-josh-bristow/

- Grace Ciao: "They help me create prints which I otherwise couldn't have thought of. I think petals work really well for fashion illustration also because their delicacy and exquisiteness mimic those of a soft fabric."
Grace works with flower petals to create her illustrations, with the occasional use of markers and watercolours.
http://www.boredpanda.com/fashion-illustrations-flower-petals-grace-ciao/
http://www.graceciao.com/

- Hattie Stewart: "Posca! The only pens I use and they go on every surface." "All the best ideas and opportunities come from moving outside of your comfort zone and as an artist that is extremely important."
Professional doodler.
http://www.ameliasmagazine.com/art/an-interview-with-illustrator-hattie-stewart/2013/04/23/

- Rene Gruau: Pen and watercolour.

- Bobby Hillson: Pencil and paper.
(Just found out that she was the one who actually told Alexander McQueen to become a student at Central Saint Martins rather than take a job there! Wow, what a small world.)
http://stephanieclairefashion.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/bobby-hillson-illustrations.html

- Gladys Perint Palmer: Ink, pastel, oil paint and glitter.

Almost at the end of this project!

So the end of this project is creeping ever closer...more like running towards me at high speed, and I'm not fully prepared to be perfectly honest! This project, along with 2 others, has been left behind while I completed my FMP, which is now done, so now I have approx 3 days to complete 3 projects....hahahahahahahahaha oh dear :(

Also, because of the short space of time (everything is nearly done for this, thank god!), I cannot remove all the junk from the room I wanted to have my installation in, so that's kinda disappointing...but hey ho, I now need to find a new place to show my work.

The room I wanted to use was next to the stairs which lead to the room we normally have our video installation lessons in, and it's really dark and spooky and it goes under the stair so you have to bend down to get to some of it, which would've been so good for my project! But oh well, instead I am going to use the other side of the stairs where there is a short corridor, it's kind of dark so it's not too bad.

Sunday, 28 June 2015

Brainwave!

Last night I had a brainwave!
So I've been a bit all over the place with this project as I didn't really know what to do or how to get started as we don't have a brief, we just have to "explore techniques and processes", without a final outcome, so I've just been really stuck on actually starting the project.
I've had some books from the library and I know what artists I'd like to look at and try the techniques of, but I'm just not really connecting with the project :( I know what I need to do, but I just have no idea what to design!
BUT I REALISED SOMETHING LAST NIGHT
To follow on from my FMP and give me a starting point for this project, I could design garments inspired by our perception of beauty, which is what my FMP was about. That way, my models can be really exaggerated, along with the clothing.
I can do at least two drawings of each design, one in my own style and one in the style of a specific artist. The more I design, the more my style will develop with the other styles I'm using.
I don't have a finishing point as I don't need a final piece, but my personal aim for the project is to develop my style into something more unique.

Saturday, 27 June 2015

Essay Plan

So I have to write this essay for my contextual studies unit, and I've not done any contextual stuff for a long time, since we've been busy with FMP for about 9 or 10 weeks.
2,000 words seems like a lot, but when I'm interested and the information is flowing I should be able to cover that easily.

Subject area:
Tailoring, fashion

Time period:
1950s America

What happened socially:
Come out of war, rationing stopped
how this influenced fashion of the time

Main influential people / artists:
Who they were
what they did
how they were influenced
techniques they used
why they interest me
why I chose to research into them

http://www.20thcenturyfoxy.com/en/1950s/a32
http://www.retrowaste.com/1950s/fashion-in-the-1950s/
http://womens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/1950_Fashion_for_Women
http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/fashion-w.htm
http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/fashion-w.htm
http://vintageclothing.about.com/od/designerstolookfor/tp/1950s-Designers.htm
http://www.fashion-era.com/1950s_glamour.htm
http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-history/1950s-1960s/

notes:
- rationing ended completely in 1954
- two main silhouettes of the decade; wasp waist with full skirt and slim fitting pencil skirt
- both work well on any figure
- seen as a time of colourfulness and vibrancy, actually a time of hard work to achieve stability
- happy people, euphoria from winning the war
- rise of "ready to wear" clothing, clothing now mass produced and better quality cloths
- more variety clothing, imports from Paris
- DIOR: Dior's iconic "New Look" arrived in Paris in 1947, had enormous impact on fashion world. Dior created silhouette shapes based on letters: H-line (1954, slender tunic suit with slim skirt), A-line, Y-line. In 1957, Dior introduced the shift dress. "New Look" used lots of excess fabric (which shocked people as this amount of fabric had previously not been available) and exaggerated the hourglass female figure.
- TEENS: recognised and a specific style was developed for them, that was neither childish nor too grown up; full skirts, tight tops, capri pants and flat shoes- perfect for jive dancing! previously girls would just dress similar to their mothers. Girls were classed as children and boys until they showed signs of puberty, when they became youths. Young people became grown ups at the age of 18 and full adults at age 21, usually when they would get married and set up accommodation of their own. Getting married and purchasing property was their way of proving to the world they were adults and an escape from puberty. With their own money, teens started to socialise at cafes and diners; girls wearing poodle skirts and boys wearing white t-shirts, leather and denim jackets and slicking back their hair, very James Dean. This era was all about teens developing their own voices and styles, and rebelling from their parents styles.
- this style influenced casual fashion for both men and women.
- BEAT GENERATION: group of post war American writers that documented and inspired 'Beat' culture. Central elements of this culture: rejection of standard narrative values, spiritual quests, exploration of American and Eastern religions, rejection of materialism, explicit portrayals of the human condition, drug experimentation and sexual liberation and exploration. term "beatnik" was used to describe this culture. their style consisted of striped shirts and oversized dresses. short sleeved sweatshirts and cowl necks were worn with pencil skirts or slim fitting trousers and often worn in all black.
- PETTICOATS & FULL SKIRTS: wide pleated or circular skirts worn with layers of petticoats underneath. Always to mid calf, sometimes longer and NEVER shorter. worn in the day and evening. petticoats made up of several layers of net, usually starched for stiffness. in evening wear chiffon used in bright, contrasting colours.
- PENCIL SKIRTS: narrow, close fitting straight skirt, calf length. sometimes called a 'hobble' skirt, restricts movement making women wiggle their hips when walking. natural waist, little excess fabric and small slit up the back. pencil line dresses were also a very sophisticated look, usually for the more mature woman, paired with heels and accessories. NOT worn by young girls or teens, too provocative
- CAPRI'S: calf length trousers, narrow leg, casual look. small v at the hem for movement. often worn with shirts tucked in and wide belt on top, or with boned bodice or halter top.
- SWEATER GIRL LOOK: tight jumper, large pointy breasts created with the bullet bra, heavily padded to create the cone shapes. sweater was either turtle neck or twin set. bullet bra pushed breasts up and out
- women didn't leave the house without gloves, a hat and a handbag in the 50s!
- HATS: small lampshade style, wide brimmed or pill box shape, often with veil
- GLOVES: long in the evening with lots of bracelets, short in the day
- scarves: tied round the neck and in the hair, often brightly coloured
- BELTS: wide, to emphasize the small waist. worn with full and pencil skirts, and capri pants
- MAKE UP: red lipstick was a must! cool reds for pinky skin tones and warm reds for yellow skin tones. doe-eye make up, fine pencilled line edging the entire eye and extending in a slant to the corner.
- women felt less pressure to conform to the "fashion rules", some opted to wear 'sack dresses' which were more 1920s style, with no waistline
- "wandering waistline" term first used at Paris spring collections in 1952
- 1953 was about elegance; hemlines, waistlines and hairlines grew shorter
- CHANEL: Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (age 74) became "an adjective in her own time" in 1947. In 1957, Chanel made blouses into display pieces with her open-jacket policy, often making them the focal point of the outfit. She made a comeback in the 50s, however disagreed with the use of excess fabric, deeming it wasteful. She realised that couture was on it's way out and adapted her style to suit the mass markets of the time. She designed simple and eloquent garments and begun to introduce the little black dress.
- Dior designed a skirt slim to the knees with pleating below, now known as a mermaid / fishtail skirt
- CRISTOBAL BALENCIAGA: designer that looked to the 20s for inspiration during the 50s. went for more sleek and slender figures, broadening shoulders and taking emphasis away from the waist. This led to sack dresses and tunics becoming popular later on.
- PIERRE BALMAIN: focused on femininity and elegance, the French style of the 50s.
- CHARLES JAMES: well known for spectacular gowns, copied for prom and evening wear, intricate constructions and unique colour combinations.
- JACQUES FATH: less severe take on "New Look", softer hourglass curves, plunging necklines. his designs showed more skin than other designers so a favourite for the young and daring. swing coat- covered full skirts and ideal silhouette for post war pregnancy rate.
- NORMAN HARTNELL: designed Queen Elizabeth II's wedding gown in 1947 and then coronation gown in 1953.
- HUBERT DE GIVENCHY: "sack" dresses, loose, straight, short shift dress, inspired Mary Quant style dresses of the 60s. close friends with Balenciaga. Responsible for making Audrey Hepburn a style icon, he designed her little black dress for "Breakfast at Tiffany's".
- MARKS AND SPENCER: leader of the ready to wear market. known for quality and value for money, Paris and America often copied the way M&S produced their garments.
- AUDREY HEPBURN: capris, knitted jumpers and flat ballet pumps was a casual style she often wore. many people took inspiration from this style, with her being a popular film star of the time.
- MARILYN MONROE: famous film star, sex symbol, glamorous outfits worn on set are classic 50s.
- ELIZABETH TAYLOR: actress, career took off during 50s. traditional 50s glamorous style.
- GRACE KELLY: actress, simple style, capris, crisp cotton shirts, tortoiseshell sunglasses, dresses with modest scoop necks and pinched in waists. always sophisticated but never showy. Has a Hermes bag named after her (the Kelly bag) after she used one to cover her pregnancy bump in paparazzi photographs. She was a big fan of Dior.
- DESIGNERS: wanted to widen the shoulders without padding, so added a small round bump at the top of tailored sleeves.
- FABRICS: tweed took over in the autumn of 1952, lace, chiffon and crepe staged a comeback. prints were back in. lots of new fabrics were synthesized from petrochemicals, promoted for easy care wash and wear qualities. Initially expensive, soon became affordable. Crimplene, nylon and orlon. quick rinse, drip dry and no ironing. Crimplene enabled people to wear white and pastel colours as polyester doesn't yellow with age or sunlight like white nylon. also could be well tailored and wouldn't lose stiffness through washes.
- SPORTSWEAR: blazer stripes and contrasting colours became popular, especially with young people
- SHOES: formal shoes became more delicate
- in 1952, Italian fashion shows known as Salsa Bianca launched in Florence.
- MEN'S FASHION: away with matching waistcoat, instead waistcoat in a contrasting or complimentary colour, worn with 2 piece lounge suit for business and semi-formal occasions. variety of fabrics, silk, corduroy, velvet. bolder designs and colours on shirts, socks and ties. Influenced by musical icons such as The Rat Pack towards the end of the 50s (suits and trilby hats). Teddy Boy look originating in America, drape style jacket with cuffs and lapels in contrasting fabric, paired with matching / contrasting drainpipe trousers, stiff shirts and brocade waistcoats. Also wool jackets and loud ties. white t-shirt previously only known as underwear, made into a piece of outer clothing by icons like James Dean. He was also a promoter of the denim look.
- BATHING SUITS: seductively modelled to the figure or like little girl rompers
- JEWELLERY: large hoop earrings were popular in 1953
- hourglass shape is classic 50s look
- no pressure to have a really skinny waist as undergarments took care of any bulges
- some women didn't like how the fashion turned them back into pretty house wives, when they had proven their strength and abilities during the war, whilst others embraced the fact they could dress prettily once more.
- MID 50s: silhouette became slimmer & sheath dresses were more popular, topped with a crop bolero jacket. Instead of pretty patterns, monochrome fabric came back in fashion.
- for housework women would wear a simple sheath or wrap dress, nothing too fancy.
- FESTIVAL OF BRITAIN: 1951, over 6000 products; clothing, accessories, dress fabrics. luxury items unseen before /during the war. Most of the goods were for trade to other countries only, to promote the economy before they were available to purchase in Britain by everyday people.
- MODERN 50s: Dita Von Teese, Katy Perry, Taylor Swift, Scarlett Johansson

Other websites I took info from:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beat_Generation
http://www.farfetch.com/uk/people/fashion-history-lesson-grace-kelly.aspx
http://headtotoefashionart.com/christian-dior-1905-1957/

'New fashion illustration' book